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Gear Fishing For Winter Run Steelhead

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In this blog post, we are going to explore gear fishing for Winter Run Steelhead in depth. This fishery and these fish are among our favourites to pursue because it offers a challenge and a rewarding experience. There is nothing quite like marvelling at the beauty of these magnificent fish while taking in the stunning scenery during the winter months in British Columbia.

Please note that you are required to have a BC freshwater angling license and a Steelhead tag. They can be purchased in-store or online at: https://www2.gov.bc.ca/gov/content/sports-culture/recreation/fishing-hunting/fishing/recreational-freshwater-fishing-licence

What Are Winter Run Steelhead?

Winter steelhead (Oncorhynchus mykiss) are an anadromous rainbow trout. They share some similarities with salmon because they are born in a river, migrate to the ocean to feed, and return to their home river to spawn. Unlike salmon, steelhead do not all die after spawning. Some can spawn multiple times throughout their lives. This trait varies among different populations. Some rivers have fish that spawn multiple times more frequently than others.

Most winter run steelhead spend the first two years of their lives in freshwater, growing in size before making the journey to the ocean. They remain there for two to four years, maturing before returning to their home river to spawn. The average size of steelhead varies from river to river. Typically, an eight to twelve-pound fish is considered average, while a twenty-pound fish is a once-in-a-lifetime catch.

Winter Steelhead Run Timing

December 1st marks the beginning of Winter Steelhead season here at the store, signalling their presence in our local waters. However, this is not typically the peak time for Winter Steelhead fishing. Most river systems experience stronger runs toward the end of December or early January.

That said, this is the perfect time to scout the rivers you plan to fish throughout the season. Seasonal changes, such as the Summer freshet or Fall rains, can alter a river’s dynamics. For instance depths shift, and certain areas transform. The more familiar you are with these changes, the greater your chances of success.

Spending time on the water early in the season not only sharpens your skills but also builds confidence, setting you up for success during peak season. Steelhead fishing is often referred to as a “game of inches” for a reason. Every factor, from water conditions to presentation, matters. The more prepared and knowledgeable you are, the better your results will be.

Early Season (December to Early January)

Early-season fishing for Steelhead can be challenging. The weather is often unpredictable, river conditions can be tough, and fish are typically scarce. To maximize your chances, it is best to put in a full day of fishing and cover as much water as possible. Steelhead, especially early in the season, can be found in nearly any type of water at any given time. While there are areas where they are more likely to hold, their movements are often unpredictable.

When targeting early-season fish, focus less on the specific lure or bait you are using and more on the water you are covering. Standard presentations will usually work during this time, but they are rarely the deciding factor in whether a fish strikes. Early-season fish are often eager biters, and many will take your offering on the first drift through their holding spot. If you get a bite but do not hook them on the first attempt, do not worry, they are likely to bite again. Based on water conditions such as height and clarity, we recommend using brighter, medium-to-large presentations to draw their attention.

Effort, motivation, focus, confidence, and time. These five principles are the foundation of success in Steelhead fishing, particularly during the early season. Remember them, practice them, and you will see a notable difference in your results. In the world of Winter Steelhead fishing, 10% of anglers catch 90% of the fish, and this is especially true during the early season. When fishing a section of river at this time of year, there is no shortage of productive areas to cast.

Mid-Season (February to March)

During the mid-season, approaches to fishing remain the same, cover as much water as effectively as possible. During this time of year, you can expect fish to be spread throughout the rivers; it's just a matter of finding willing biters.

Fish that entered the river earlier in the year may have already been hooked, making them more wary. As a result, “missing” a fish (having it bite but not hooking it) and not getting another opportunity becomes more common compared to earlier in the season when a missed bite might occur again on the next cast or a few casts later.

Days start getting longer, allowing for more fishing time than earlier in the year. Rising water temperatures make fish more active and willing to move farther to bite. Freshly arriving fish are more often found in the lower sections of rivers during this time.

The mid-season is a great time for steelhead fishing.

Late Season (April to Sometimes May)

This is the home stretch for winter steelhead fishing, and just because we use the term "late season" doesn’t mean there aren’t fresh fish to be caught.

At this time of year, the days are the longest. While there’s no bad time to go steelhead fishing, and fish can bite at any time of day, including first light, there’s no denying that later in the day can often produce some very willing fish.

Late-season fishing does mean there may be some coloured-up (darker) fish that have been in the system for a while, but there are still plenty of fresh chrome fish to be found throughout this period. Our strategies remain the same as in the early and mid-season: cover water, hunt them down, and have confidence that there are most likely fish in every spot you’re fishing. It’s just a matter of whether or not they’re willing to play the game!

As April fades into May, many rivers close to fishing, so be sure to check that your fishing destination is actually open. While there may still be some new fish around, we are very much at the tail end of winter steelhead season.

Not only can the time of year dictate river closures, but the weather can also impact fishing conditions. If we get hot weather, rivers can go into freshet, making them unfishable.

Reading and Covering Water

Steelhead can be found in almost any type of water on any given day. That being said, the most productive Steelhead water typically features boulders and rock structures with a “walking speed” flow. If undisturbed, Steelhead are not afraid to sit close to shore, so it is always a good idea to start casting near the bank and work your way outward. Other key areas to focus on include current seams, where faster-moving water meets a slower current, as well as tailouts of runs and side channels, both of which can be highly productive.

If possible, cover as much water as you can. A critical method for doing this effectively is to start at the top of your chosen stretch, casting tight to shore and gradually working your way farther out while moving downstream. Take a few steps after every couple of casts to ensure thorough coverage.

If you feel you have not covered the water well enough, suspect there may be a fish, or think you have missed a strike, repeat the process. If you believe you have missed a fish, try varying your approach. Cast multiple times into the same spot, and if there is still no bite, switch to a different lure or bait. This change often triggers a response from the fish. Early-season Steelhead are typically aggressive, as they are fresh and have not been exposed to many presentations yet. With persistence and a methodical approach, you will improve your chances of success.

Where to Catch Winter Steelhead

The Vedder/Chilliwack River is the most popular location for fishing Winter Run Steelhead. This river has some of the earliest arriving fish and continues to see fresh fish push in until it closes at the end of April. Other systems that might be worth trying are the Chehalis River and Stave River. Always be sure to double check the regulations before venturing out. Visit the BC Freshwater Fishing Regulations website for more information.

River Levels and Flows

The most desirable water conditions on any Steelhead river occur when the water is dropping after a period of high flow and has a bit of colour to it. This can be prime time for fishing. That being said, fish, especially in a larger river like the Chilliwack, can still be caught in lower water conditions. During periods of low water, downsizing presentations can be the key to success.

Moon Phases and Tides

Water levels are not the only factor that influences Steelhead migrations. Moon phases can also play a major role. We typically see larger numbers of fish moving in around full moons. Tides can also affect fish movement into a river system, especially in rivers that flow directly into the ocean. As a general rule, fish are more likely to enter the river as the tide rises toward high tide. Visit this website to check the tide tables.

Fish Handling

Steelhead should always be treated with the greatest care. Wild fish cannot be retained in any river system in British Columbia, so we should never drag a fish onto the rocks to release it. If you are taking a photo of a fish, it should remain in the water until the photographer is ready to take the picture. Leaving as much of the fish in the water as possible for the photo is highly recommended. Always stay close to the river by kneeling or crouching. Standing while holding the fish could lead to dropping it and causing harm.

Angling Etiquette

When we’re out on the water, it’s important to show respect not only for the fish but also for the other anglers. Fishing is a shared experience and being considerate of others creates a more enjoyable environment for everyone.

One common mistake is walking directly below someone who is already working their way down a run. It’s essential to recognize that if someone is already fishing in that spot, they have the right to work that section of the river first.

A courteous approach is to move above them, give them ample room and then start to work your way downstream behind them, not crowding them. Showing this level of respect not only promotes good relationships between anglers but also helps maintain the integrity of the fishing experience for everyone involved.

Float Fishing for Steelhead

The most critical factor for success in this fishery, is fishing at the correct depth. One common mistake we see is anglers fishing too deep for the section of water they are targeting. Remember, you do not need to drag your gear along the bottom to catch steelhead. While steelhead typically hold close to the bottom, they will often rise to strike your presentation. The ideal depth is about one foot off the bottom. This approach maximizes your chances of hooking fish while avoiding the risk of snagging or spooking them by dragging your gear along the riverbed.

Steelhead Float Fishing Rods

The two most common rods for Winter Run Steelhead fishing are centerpin and levelwind or baitcasting rods. Each of these rods is specifically designed to match the reel being used with it. You would not use a centerpin reel on a baitcasting rod, and vice versa.

Centerpin Rods

Centerpin rods have the reel seat positioned lower on the rod, with the back grip being about 8 inches in length and the upper portion 12 to 14 inches long. Rod lengths can range from 9 to 13 feet, with 10'6" being the most common length by far. Shorter rods are best suited to smaller rivers, as they are easier to handle in tighter spaces, preventing tangling in trees and bushes on the riverbanks. On larger rivers, however, shorter rods can make it more challenging to make long casts and control your drift. As mentioned earlier, longer rods on larger rivers allow for longer casts and better control of your presentation. Rods in medium, medium light, or light action are best suited for steelhead fishing.

Centerpin Reels

Centerpin reels are designed to spin freely, allowing for effortless casting and drag-free presentations. They are a lot of fun to fish with and offer excellent control over your presentation. These reels do not have a traditional drag system, other than the resistance when engaging the clicker. To switch between casting and engaging the clicker, there is typically a button or lever on the back of the reel that can either be rotated or flipped up and down. The method of engagement and disengagement can vary from reel to reel.

There are two types of centerpin reels on the market: bushing reels and bearing reels, with the latter offering more options. Reel sizes typically range from 4 to 5 inches. The choice of size ultimately boils down to personal preference. A larger diameter reel will allow for faster line pickup, but some may find it too large for their comfort. A bushing reel will start up easier with a lighter weight than a bearing reel, but a bearing reel will spin longer once it gets going. Watch our video guide on properly maintaining your centerpin reel to keep it in top condition.

A bearing reel will generally have tighter tolerances than a bushing reel, especially as the bushing reel wears over time. When holding the spool and frame of a bushing reel, you may notice some play in it. While this doesn’t impact the reel’s performance, but it can be bothersome to some anglers. A bearing reel may require bearing replacement over time, but this is a simple process.

Popular entry-level bearing centerpin reels include the Okuma Aventa Float Reel, Okuma Raw II, Luhr Jensen Legacy centerpin reel, and Trophy XL Glyde. Higher-end options include the Islander Steelheader and the Kingpin Imperial. While there are fewer choices for bushing reels, the ones available are of very high quality. Notable bushing reels include the John Milner Kingfishers and the Kingpin Zephyr.

Check out our review of the Trophy XL Glyde centerpin reel.

Levelwind and Baitcasting Rods

Levelwind or baitcasting rods differ from centerpin rods in their handle construction. Firstly, the rear grip is longer, typically about the length of your forearm, and the top grip is shorter, usually 6 to 8 inches in length. Reel seats on these rods almost always have a trigger. When using these rods, they are fished “upside down,” with the guides facing up. Most baitcasting rods are faster action, as this suits casting with these types of reels.

Baitcasting rods can be purchased in lengths from 8'6" to 10'6" in today’s market. In the past, there were more options for 11' and 12' rods, but those lengths seem to have fallen out of favour with manufacturers. Once again, 10'6" is the most popular length for all-around usage. The comments on the choice of shorter or longer rods, as previously discussed in centerpin rods, are also relevant to baitcasting rods.

Popular rod choices include the Okuma SST 10'6" Medium, G. Loomis IMX Pro 1264 (G. Loomis calls this rod "Heavy," but we would not agree with that designation, as it’s not really accurate compared to other rods), Trophy XL 10'6" Medium Light, Trophy XL Titan 2106 (10'6"), Shimano Compre 10'6" Medium, Shimano Technium 10'6" Medium, Trophy XL 9'6" Medium, and the Fenwick Eagle 9' Medium.

Levelwind and Baitcasting Reels

Levelwind or baitcasting reels are available in two types: conventional round-style reels and low-profile reels. There's no right or wrong choice in which reel to use; it really boils down to personal preference, as both get the job done. Low-profile reels are typically a bit lighter than the round reels. If you're new to baitcasting reels, be sure to check out our video guide: How to Use a Baitcasting Reel.

These types of reels differ from centerpins in that they have a gear ratio. This means that for every full turn of the handle, the spool will rotate 5.3 times or more, depending on the gear ratio of your reel. This feature allows for a much faster retrieve compared to that of a centerpin, which has a 1:1 ratio.

These reels also have a drag system, unlike a centerpin reel. A baitcasting or levelwind reel also allows an angler to cast lures, such as spoons or spinners. This cannot be done easily with a centerpin, as the lures are too light to cast effectively, and the slow retrieve isn't ideal for fishing these types of lures.

Popular round baitcasters include the Abu Garcia C3, Abu Garcia C4, Shimano Corvalus, Shimano Calcutta B, and the Daiwa Millionaire. For low-profile reels, popular choices are the Shimano Tranx, Shimano Curado, 13 Fishing Concept A3, Daiwa Lexa, and the Daiwa Tatula.

Terminal Tackle

There is a variety of terminal tackle used for Winter Steelhead Fishing. Let's first look at our mainline. Check out our video for expert tips on setting up your terminal tackle for steelhead fishing.

Monofilament Mainline

Firstly, monofilament line remains the more popular choice for winter fishing. One of the reasons for this is that when dealing with subzero temperatures, braided line, since it can absorb water, can freeze and become basically unfishable.

We recommend a monofilament line size of 15lb or 20lb. Too light of a mainline is not nearly as durable and could become compromised when fighting a fish around bigger, sharp rocks. Too heavy, and it becomes challenging to cast further distances, and control of your drift becomes difficult as the current can easily grab these thicker lines. For monofilament, popular lines are Berkley Trilene Big Game, Maxima Ultragreen, Stren Original in the clear blue fluorescent colour, Sufix Siege and Maxima Tuna Blue.

Braided Mainline

If the temperatures are above zero, one can absolutely use braided line. Braid in a larger river can offer some advantages, such as a better hook set on a far cast, as there is no stretch to the line. Plus, it floats higher than monofilament, so drifts on the long cast are superior to that of monofilament.

A disadvantage of braid on a small river is the lack of stretch. It's really easy to have your gear go rocketing into the trees above if you set a hook and miss the fish or hook on an unseen obstacle in the river, such as a stick. If you do decide to use braid, we would look at using 40lb or 50lb. Braided line choices are Sufix 832, Power Pro, Tuf-Line XP, or Berkley Fireline.

Floats

Floats are a staple for us in BC for Winter Steelhead Fishing. There are a variety of choices of floats on the market today. This is another personal preference choice, and we will take a look at the different styles and their positives and negatives, but first let's talk about float size.

Most floats today have a gram rating on them. This is meant to be matched to the correct weight size. Previous to this, it was just a bit of a guessing game on how much weight you would need to properly load the float. Now today we have Danielson Egg Sinkers which have the weight on the package, or our own exclusive Compleat Angler premeasured pencil lead.

Essentially, you want your float to be riding just above the painted top portion of it. Too little weight and the float will be sitting too high in the water, getting pushed around by the current and making a subtle bite difficult to detect, plus your gear won't be presented correctly. Too much weight and the float will be going under constantly when it is not a fish biting your offering. Again, your gear will not be presented correctly.

Float sizing is relative to the river you are fishing. In smaller systems, 20 gram or 25 gram would be the go-to, and on medium to larger rivers, 30 gram and 35 gram would be the way to go. Using the larger floats on a smaller river could spook fish and would be more weight than needed for that river. With smaller floats on bigger waters, you may be using too little weight to get your presentation down to the fish. There are three main types of floats: the clear plastic floats, foam floats, and cork floats.

Clear Floats

The clear plastic floats, being clear, are intended to not be seen by the fish, so a stealthier approach. That said, we do know of a few stories of anglers having a steelhead attack their clear float, so that makes one ponder whether or not this float is truly invisible to the fish. A disadvantage of these floats is that they can crack if they bounce off rocks, but that being said, these floats have a huge following and are one of our most popular sellers. Popular clear floats we sell are the Drennan Zeppler, Drennan Piker and Cleardrift Big Water Series.

Foam Floats

Foam floats such as DNE Foam Float or DNE extended floats are super popular, some of this maybe due to them being the most inexpensive. There is also the traditional dink float by DNE or Uncle Fred's. These are what dominated the market for years until some of these others came onto the market. We prefer the drift that you get from the tapered style of the DNE Foam float or DNE Extended Floats. Any of these foam floats get the job done though and, as mentioned, are not expensive.

Similar to these floats are the Top Shelf Tear Drop Slider. These floats are a harder material, giving them more durability and a bit more weight, making further casts easier. These floats are a bit more expensive but again are very durable.

Cork Floats

Lastly, we have locally made Badjura cork floats and Compleat Angler cork floats. These floats do not come cheap as they are hand-made, and cork has become more and more expensive over time.

Cork floats have weight to them, allowing for much further casting, and they ride nicer in the water than any of the other floats, but losing one can be heartbreaking.

Check out our Badjura Cork Floats review.

Bobber Stoppers

When using any of the mentioned floats, we use a bobber stopper to keep them in place. A bobber stopper is threaded onto your line above and below the float, stopping the float from moving on the line but allowing you to make wanted adjustments. We do recommend putting a small bead in-between the stopper and the float to act as a bumper.

We carry DNE , Compleat Angler, Gibbs, and Cleardrift, all work well. Check out our step-by-step tutorial on How to Rig a Bobber Stopper.

Pencil Lead, Egg Sinkers and Split Shot

As discussed earlier, Steelhead lay on the bottom of the river, so we need weight to get our offering down to the fish as well as the ability to cast our gear out. What weight you decide to go with is again a personal choice, they all work. Pencil Lead and Egg Sinkers are arguably the most popular choices.

Pencil Lead can be purchased in a coil in either ¼" or 3/8" size or as premeasured pieces by Compleat Angler.

Egg Sinkers by Danielson or Compleat Angler are our main choices. Both these weights are easy to use, easy to set up, and they work very well, what's not to like. When using either of these weights, we recommend using a Buzzbomb Bumper in between the weight and your swivel (which we will discuss next). This prevents the knot from being damaged or the lead sliding down over the swivel.

Split Shot are the other weight choice. When using these, we are using anywhere from 3-6 split shot on our line, depending on size of the shot and the size of your float. Split Shot have always been viewed as a weight that gives a nicer presentation, a more natural looking drift that steelhead prefer. If you are just starting out, Split Shot can be a bit more challenging to use as they can tangle easier when casting and can get wedged in between rocks a bit easier than the other types of lead. We offer Compleat Angler split shot, Coldwater Angler split shot and Danielson split shot.

Swivels and Duo-Locks

When float fishing, we are always using a swivel. The swivel allows us to attach our main line to our leader. They also help prevent line twisting from gear spinning as you reel in. A Barrel Swivel is the most common to use in size #10 or #12.

A very handy add-on to your swivel is a duo-lock snap. Duo-Locks can open at either end, but the fatter, longer end is the one we set up to use the most. The purpose of the duo-lock is to allow quick changes of gear. One can simply set up leaders with a swivel; the duo-lock is opened and the new leader is snapped on once the old one has been removed, and you're fishing again lightning quick, no knots needed.

If you were to use a duo-lock and an egg sinker or pencil Lead, we would have: weight, Buzzbomb Bumper, duo-lock, and then swivel to our leader. If using split shot, it would be shot down to the duo-lock, then swivel and leader. We carry Luhr Jensen Duo-Locks, Brad's Duo-Locks, and Pucci Duo-Locks.

Leader

Our leader, which is simply fishing line to the hook, should always be lighter than your mainline. This helps ensure that if your hook becomes snagged on something, your main line and float are not lost.

A lot has changed in the world of leaders in recent years. Steelhead, especially fresh ones, are not really known to be leader shy within reason, but as the season goes on or in really low, clear conditions, in the past people would sometimes step down their leader size to get a bite.

Fluorocarbon has revolutionized fishing lines by reflecting less light than traditional monofilament, making it nearly invisible underwater. This allows anglers to use heavier lines for added strength while maintaining a stealthy approach to avoid spooking fish. We recommend using fluorocarbon in 12lb, 15lb, or 20lb options for optimal performance. Some of our top picks include Seaguar Blue Label Fluorocarbon, Seaguar STS Fluorocarbon, and Seaguar InvisX Fluorocarbon. These lines are trusted for their durability, reliability, and unmatched stealth in the water.

Watch this video to learn how-to tie a bait look knot.

If you're going to use monofilament, Maxima Ultragreen is the best. Using 10lb, 12lb, or 15lb would be the way to go.

Hooks

Hooks are, needless to say, a very important part of our set up. This is one part of our gear where really spending that extra little bit of money is well worth it. We work very hard and at times spend a lot of hours not catching a fish, to finally get the chance only to have your dull hook bounce out of a fish's mouth is less than a desired outcome.

Hook sizes will vary depending on what lure or bait you are using. Larger baits or lures will typically require a little larger hook. Our hook size range is #4 being the smallest to a 2/0 being the largest. Generally, we use #1 and 1/0 most commonly. Our recommended hooks are Gamakatsu Octopus hooks, Owner SSW with Cutting Point hooks, Owner SSW with Super Needle Point hooks, and Owner No Escape hooks. It's important to keep your hooks sharp, watch our video on How to Properly Sharpen your Hook.

Natural Baits for Steelhead

Before heading out Winter Steelhead fishing, it is extremely important to know the rules and regulations regarding the usage of bait, as some systems allow its usage, and some do not. If you are allowed to use it, there is a variety of natural baits and scents you can choose from.

Cured Roe

Roe is one of the first to look at when fishing. Salmon roe is often dyed with some form of coloured cure as it can be more effective. While this brighter bait does work for Steelhead, we much prefer to use a natural-coloured egg, so curing eggs with natural Borax for the cure.

Any kind of salmon roe can be used effectively, but the number one type of roe for Winter Steelhead fishing is Steelhead roe. To obtain this, you obviously must first catch a hatchery steelhead on a hatchery system where you can retain it. Watch the Best Bait Cures for Steelhead video for tips on curing your roe.

Roe Bags

Roe bags are another great natural bait. Bags can be made of either water-hardened single eggs or taking small chunks of roe and tying them in the bag. One nice thing about roe bags is they will last longer and stay on the hook for more casts than a loose chunk of roe.

If you'd like to make your your own bait bags you will need some spawn netting and some Spider Thread. We recommend the Atlas Mike's Spawn Net Super Soft Squares or Red Wing Tackle Spawn Net. Check out our video tutorial on tying a bait bag for a quick and easy guide.

Shrimp, Prawns and Krill

Shrimp and prawns are another good option for a natural steelhead bait. These can be dyed a bright colour or just used naturally. A raw prawn stays on the hook very well without having to add any salt to toughen them up, whereas cooked shrimp are a little more delicate, so adding a bit of coarse salt to toughen them up or tying them into a bag similar to roe is helpful.

Krill is another excellent option. Krill can be tied up in a bait bag or placed directly on your hook.

Ghost Shrimp (Sand Shrimp)

Ghost Shrimp are often debated as one of the best natural baits for steelhead for good reason, they do work very well, but they are tougher to obtain as they are not readily available commercially. You have to go and hit the beach to get them yourself. To do this, you need a Tidal Water License and have to adhere to the limit of 50.

You need a low tide to be able to access the sandy mud flats where they reside and a Ghost Shrimp pump (bug pump) like the one made by Compleat Angler. The pump pulls the sand out, leaving a hole for you to fish out your quarry. Ghost Shrimp, while they will work at any time of year, really shine the best when the water temperatures are higher in the Springtime.

Dew Worms

Last but not least, Dew Worms can be an underestimated natural bait. Similar to Sand Shrimp, these seem to produce better later on in the season when the water temperature is higher.

Scents for Steelhead

There is no doubt that utilizing scents for Winter Steelhead can produce better results, but before we dive into this, if there is a bait ban in place on a river, the usage of scents is prohibited. Check out this video on the Top Bait Scents for Catching Steelhead.

There are a wide variety of different scents that can be used. Pro-Cure really dominates the scent market. We can use Pro-Cure gels and oils to enhance natural baits or apply it to any artificial lure. The oils are clear, so they won't cause any staining.

Pro-Cure Super Gel comes in all the same scent flavours as the oil but is a thicker, stickier gel. This scent does have colour to it, which can stain things such as yarn or could alter the colour of some artificial lures. The gel is ideal on spoons and spinners, sticking on that much better than the oil, and while we mentioned its colour can stain some lures, this isn't the case with these. Learn more about the benefits of using scents and attractants.

Pro-Cure Super Gels:

Pro-Cure Oils:

Pro-Cure Water Soluble is a nice scent option as well, and in the case of one artificial lure, it's the only option. If applying oil or gel to jigs made of fur or feathers, it will cause them to lose their movement that makes them so attractive to fish. The water soluble scent comes in a spray bottle, making it a nice, easy application option. Good choices for this are the Pro-Cure Water-Soluble Krill Oil or Pro-Cure Water-Soluble Sand Shrimp Oil.

The last scent we want to put on the radar is Pro-Cure Krill Powder. We like to sprinkle some of this on our roe when we are curing it as a flavour enhancement, the fish appreciate the extra addition!

Hard Beads for Steelhead

There is no denying the effectiveness of hard beads for Winter Steelhead, simply put, they work. They work like, really, really well. We offer several different hard bead: TroutBeads, TroutBeads MottledBeads, TroutBeads BloodDotEggs and Spirit River UV2 Fusion Beads. Both TroutBeads and Spirit River offer a wide variety of sizes and colours of hard beads.

The most common hard bead size is the 10mm. That doesn't mean the other sizes are not worth using; the size range is 6mm, 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, and 14mm. When using this artificial lure, we do recommend that you utilize Trout Bead Peggz. These are a tapered soft plastic stick that gets threaded through the hole on the bead once it has been placed on the leader. Once the thicker portion of the peg is secured, the ends can be trimmed as flush as possible on either side of the bead, making it look unnoticeable.

You can now slide your bead up the line away from the hook, approximately 1" away from the top of the hook. By doing this, we increase the chances of a good hook-up. Being hard, these beads can easily bounce out of a fish's mouth, so utilizing the Trout Bead Peggz is a must. The Trout Bead Peggz will work with Spirit River UV2 Beads as well. Check out this video tutorial on How to Peg a Hard Bead for a step-by-step guide.

As mentioned, these are available in a wide range of colours that are all producers. It's just a matter of trying different ones and developing your own personal favourites. We like to recommend to people that have not tried these before, just to have some diversity: have something bright, have something subtle or natural, and something with a washed-out look. No matter which colour of Hard Beads you decide on trying, have confidence in them because they work.

Soft Beads for Steelhead

Soft beads have taken the rivers by storm since they burst onto the scene, and for good reason, they are extremely effective, at times outperforming natural baits. We offer BnR Soft Beads, Mad River Soft Beads and Cleardrift Soft Beads. All three provide a wide variety of colours that are great options for targeting Winter Steelhead.

Soft beads can be purchased in 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 16mm, 20mm, and 25mm. River conditions can dictate which size to select. Lower water usually means downsizing; higher, more coloured water, upsizing the size would be the norm. This said, it's not always an absolute. By this we mean sometimes some shock therapy can get a bite. There can be times when a fish gets caught on a larger, brighter offering in low, clear conditions, so don't be afraid to go against the norm sometimes. Learn the best technique for rigging a soft bead for steelhead fishing by watching this helpful video tutorial.

Similarly to hard beads, soft beads should be pegged up from the hook to increase hook-ups. Also similar to hard beads, soft beads are available in a wide variety of different colour choices, all of which are effective. It's just a matter of finding the ones you have confidence in by playing around with different ones. Just start off with some contrasting colours and see which ones give you that fishy feeling. Check out our Hard Beads vs Soft Beads blog post.

Plastic Worms for Steelhead

Plastic Worms or rubber worms are basically a mandatory Winter Steelhead lure. These things work everywhere: low water, high water, clear water, coloured water, early season, mid-season, late season, and in all sizes and colours. There's no one lure that guarantees every fish will bite, that's why we have so many different choices, but these artificial worms are a highly effective choice to try and get fish to bite; there's no arguing that.

Worm sizes can range from 3"-6", with a 4" size being the most popular. Worm colour choices are vast: we have bright pinks, bubblegum, lighter pale pinks, black, dew worm imitations, and pure white, just to name a few. As per other mentioned lures, all sizes and colours are effective; it's just a matter of building a confident relationship with some of them.

Worms can be rigged in a variety of ways: with a hook at the top of the worm, hook at the tail, or on a jig head. You can take a look at all the rigging methods in our YouTube video: Rigging Pink Worms 4 Different Ways. Our preferred worm brands are Cleardrift Dirty Worms, Cleardrift Ultra-Light Steelhead Worms, Hawkeye Worms, and Mad River Steelhead Worms; all of these are great product choices that will get fish to bite.

Check out this video on 4 Effective Ways to Rig a Plastic Worm for Steelhead.

Float Fishing Jigs for Steelhead

Jigs are another very effective Winter Steelhead lure. Float fishing jigs is the most common method used when using a jig. Jigs are available in a variety of weights, especially when we talk about using them for salmon fishing, but for steelhead, it's mostly a 1/4oz or 1/8oz size we look at using. With these sizes, we do need to add some more weight to our presentation to be able to cast it out and have it get down to the fish.

One of the biggest keys to effectively using jigs is to not fish them too deep. Jigs have a weighted head, if your float is adjusted too far away from your weight, then your jig will be in the rocks, snagging bottom constantly, losing gear and catching no fish. Fish will come up for a well-presented jig, so fish shallower than normal to account for the weighted jig head.

See the Sea-Run Fly & Tackle custom tied Steelhead float fishing jig tying tutorials:

Steelhead Spoon Fishing

Spoons are a solid lure for catching Winter Steelhead. It's a good change up from offerings being dangled below a float. Spoons are a very simple set up: tie the lure on to the end of your mainline and you're ready to fish. You can, if you like, use a swivel and leader on your spoon rig, it doesn't hurt anything. But because a spoon has a swivel on it already and wobbles more than spins, you won't get line twists from using a spoon that you do with a spinner.

When we fish with these lures, you cast out pretty much directly in front of you and allow it to swing across the current. Your rod tip will bounce as the lure works its way across the water. You may at times need to slowly reel to get the lure working, but we don't want to reel if it's causing the rod tip to bounce quickly, this is the indicator that the lure is moving too quickly. We want the spoon to flutter slowly; this makes for more of a strobe light effect opposed to looking at a normal light bulb.

Not all water is spoon water. Really fast-moving water is tough to spoon fish, super high coloured river conditions are not ideal for this method either. Given the nature of how we fish this lure, it's a great method to cover a lot of water, and the bites are reactionary, meaning if a fish is biting this lure, it's doing it right away. So, casting into the same spot for hours on end is not effective—cast, swing, walk, cast, swing, walk, look for the biter.

Spoon sizes for Winter Steelhead are 2/3oz, 5/8oz, or 2/5oz. Water speed and depth will dictate which size to use. Shallower, slower water, go lighter; faster or deeper water, fish heavier. Spoons are fished with baitcasting or levelwind rod and reel set ups most commonly, or a spinning rod and reel. These set ups allow you to cast these lighter lures easily, plus allow you to reel in slack line quickly and allow you to feel the lure working. We like rods with a sensitive tip so you can really feel that lure working.

For line, our most popular choice is Stren Clear Blue Fluorescent Monofilament in 14lb, 17lb, or 20lb. This line, when in natural light, glows a purple-blue kind of tinge to it, which lets you track your lure much better than with a clearer line. Not to worry either, this visibility doesn't have a negative impact on the lure's effectiveness. The line disappears in the water even in low, clear water conditions; attaching the spoon right to this line doesn't spook fish.

Braided line can also be used when spoon fishing. You would need to either attach some monofilament to the braid with a double uni-knot or use a swivel and monofilament leader; you do not want to attach the spoon directly to braid. Our most popular Winter Steelhead Spoons are Prime Lures Glory Spoons, which are available in a multitude of colours to tempt the fish.

Spinners for Steelhead

Spinners such as Blue Fox Vibrax Spinners and Prime Lures Clean Up Crew Spinners do work for Winter Run Steelhead but are not as commonly used like in the Fall Coho Salmon fishery. But that doesn't mean they don't work; they can offer a different change up from other types of gear.

Though similar to a spoon in how they are used, the type of water they can be fished in, and type of rod and reel and line we would use, they do have a totally different flash to them than a spoon. We would recommend using these lures in a number 3, 4, or 5 size and in basic colours such as straight silver, gold or brass, and copper. If you are using a spinner, unlike a spoon, you have to make sure to use a swivel and a leader, as that blade rotates quickly and without the swivel will twist your line.

Twitching Jigs for Steelhead

Twitching Jigs, like spinners, are not used locally as much for Winter Run Steelhead as they get used for Fall Coho Fishing; this doesn't mean they don't work. A twitching jig is a longer length jig than the jigs used for float fishing and heavier—3/8oz or 5/16oz. We are not using an external weight, hence the heavier jig head.

To fish a twitching jig, we cast them out in front of us, reel up the slack, and lift the rod tip quickly and lower it, reel up the slack, and repeat until the jig has been retrieved to your feet. Levelwind or baitcasting rod and reels or spinning reels are the go-to set ups for fishing a twitching jig; these will cast them the best and let you pick up the slack when twitching. For your mainline, we like the visibility again of Stren Clear Blue Fluorescent.

Tackle Storage

Preparedness is the key to success when fishing Winter Steelhead. This is especially true during the early portion of the season when the days are short; sitting down on the rocks tying up rigs can eat up a huge part of your day. This type of work should be done at home.

We always pre-tie our leaders for the day and beyond and wrap them around either a Delta Tackle Leader Boards or Kufa Leader Boards.

There's a notch at the top of the leader board to put your leader into to stop it from unravelling. It's recommended to take a knife and do the same at the bottom of the board. If your leader is too short or too long for the top slice, you can use the bottom one, it just helps keep everything a little tidier. Keeping your leader boards in a Ziploc bag helps to keep everything clean and dry.

Other handy items for gear storage are Finsport Leader Wallets. These can be used for storing lures, swivels, weights, and other items. They have heavy-duty Ziploc bags to individually store items, a foam pad on the inside for putting hooks into, and an outside pocket.

Calcutta Lure Boxes and Trophy XL Lure Boxes can also be utilized for equipment storage.

Vests and Packs

While we Winter Steelhead fish, we are constantly on the move trying to hunt out these at times elusive fish, so storing everything in a tackle box to be left on the bank is not practical. Vests and packs are commonly used to store your fishing tackle for river fishing. We carry DieHard Creations River vests, DieHard Creations Pintail Vests and the Bron's Vedder vests.

These vests have big wrap-around pockets for storing all our gear, water bottle, lunch, or rain jacket. These vests should fit a bit on the bigger side for layering, plus we want the pockets to be easily accessible, not up too high so it's awkward to get at your gear. Check out our blog post: Tips for Organizing Your Steelhead Fishing Vest and discover how to streamline your gear for a more efficient and enjoyable fishing experience.

If vests don't appeal to you, there are other options. Sling Packs or Hip Packs from Simms or Patagonia are another great option for carrying your steelhead tackle with you.

Sling Packs:

Hip Packs:

Sunglasses

A good quality pair of Polarized sunglasses is an important piece of equipment for Winter Run Steelhead fishing, and not just for the sun. Firstly, polarized glasses help cut the glare off the water, which allows us to see into the water much better than with the naked eye. This helps in seeing water depth and bottom structure better and occasionally spotting fish.

Just because the sun isn't shining doesn't mean the sunglasses should be in the vehicle. You'll want to own a pair of glasses with a brown or amber lens; this is the best all-around colour. You can wear these in low light conditions such as on overcast days and utilize the benefits of seeing into the water better, protecting your eyes from UV light which still exists when the sun isn't shining down.

Wearing the glasses can also protect your eyes from unexpected accidents, such as having a snagged weight come flying at your face and potentially causing serious damage to your eye. Good choices for glasses if you want to go high end are glasses by Maui Jim Sunglasses and Smith Optics Sunglasses. Good bang for the buck options are Suncloud Sunglasses and Calcutta Sunglasses.

Learn more about the advantages of polarized sunglasses for fishing and how they can help you catch more Steelhead.

Nets

Nets have become increasingly popular on our rivers the past number of years. They can help possibly provide a safer, faster way to land a fish. We want to ensure that we are using a net that is the knotless catch and release bag material; the larger squared knotted mesh can be hard on fish.

When selecting a net, we want to find something that has a hoop large enough to fit a Steelhead into and not too long of a handle that it's going to make walking through the bushes challenging. Moby Nets, locally handcrafted with care, have become a top choice among river anglers for their exceptional quality and reliability. Popular choices are Moby DK Special Black Mesh Net, Moby DK Special Rubber Net, Moby Steelhead Black Mesh Net, Moby Steelhead Rubber Net. If you're looking a more affordable option, then have a look at the Frabill Floating Trout Net in the 19"x23" size.

Accessories

The other necessities of life when in our pursuit of Winter Steelhead are Dr. Slick Cyclone Nippers or a pair of Dr. Slick Braid Scissors for cutting line, P-Line Aluminum Pliers for pinching barbs, attaching some weights, and removing hooks from fish, and a Dr. Slick Hook File for ensuring your hooks are sticky sharp.

A wading staff can drastically help aid in navigating the sometimes challenging terrain on a Winter Steelhead river. Simms makes a couple of very nice options for this: the Simms Wading Staff or the Simms Pro Wading Staff.

Most waders come with a wading belt, which should always be worn. It can literally be a life saver; if you fall in the river, it can stop water from filling up your waders. We carry the Patagonia Secure Stretch Wading Belt and the Simms Neoprene Wading Belt.

If the river you're angling on has hatchery retention on it, then you'll want to have some Trophy XL Fish Bags or Compleat Angler Fish Bags. These can be a very handy thing to have to prevent fish slime all over your vest and back seat of your car or truck.

When the weather is cold, Stanley's Ice Off Paste is a must. This paste gets smeared on your guides before you hit the river and occasionally while you're fishing, and the icing up of guides is reduced substantially. Watch the video on How to Use Stanley's Ice Off Paste.

Waders

Waders are a mandatory piece of Winter Steelhead equipment. The water is cold; you don't want to be wet wading in December. Breathable waders dominate the market now. When it's cold, you layer as needed; when it's warm, you can shed the layers and be comfortable.

Waders carry a wider price range, starting at about $299.98 running up to $1249.98. As we spend more money, we will see things like more layers in the bottom of the wader for added durability, higher quality fabrics such as Gore-Tex being used, and heavy duty waterproof zippers on the front of the waders.

Winter Steelhead fishing in BC involves a lot of hiking, so investing in the best waders you can afford is essential, this fishery is tough on gear.

Good Entry-Level Options:

Higher-End Options:

Choose a pair that best suits your needs and budget. Watch our review of Grundens waders and boots.

Wading Boots

Wading boots are worn over top of the neoprene stocking foot on waders. These boots give you ankle support and have materials on the bottom to help with traction when hiking. Wading boot bottoms are either felt, Vibram, or rubber soles. All materials have their pluses and negatives. See our blog post Felt Sole vs Rubber Sole Wading Boots.

Felt is consistent in feel from river to river, cleats are not needed, but they are not as good on muddy trails or in snow, which can build up on the bottoms. Rubber or Vibram soles require cleats for best performance, which is an extra cost, but they do last longer. They are superior on muddy trails and in snow, no question, but we have noticed they have different feels on different surfaces, so not as consistent from river to river in feel. To learn more on the differences, check out our blog post: Felt vs Vibram.

Felt Sole Wading Boots:

Rubber and Vibram Sole Wading Boots:

Interchangeable Sole Wading Boots:

Rain Jackets

Winter weather is not always the nicest, so we need to be equipped with a quality rain jacket to keep us comfortable in weather that has most sane people inside. Breathable jackets, like the waders, are what dominate the market. They really are the way to go in a fishery that has us hiking around and on days with lots of snow or rain.

Jackets are cut shorter for river fishing, as we don't need the longer length as we are wearing waders, and we don't need the bottom of our jacket hanging in the water while we are waded out. These jackets not only help keep the water out, they are also a windbreaker which helps keep us warm. A cold breeze can eventually suck all the heat out of you.

Technical Clothing

We are pretty fortunate to live in the era of technical clothing we do. Head to toe, we can be draped in the best, most sophisticated performance clothing that a 1960's steelheader could only dream of. Proper layering and clothing makes the difference between being warm and happy or cold and miserable. To learn more about effective layering, check out our blog: Staying Warm While Fishing in Cold Weather.

Let's start at the bottom: socks. As we have discussed, Winter Steelhead fishing is a hunting game. We are constantly on the move, hiking up and down rivers, your feet will thank you for getting a quality pair of socks. There is a saying: "cotton kills." This saying refers to cotton absorbing moisture and trapping it against the skin, not wicking it away to the top of the material like fabrics such as poly or wool blends or straight merino wool.

Simms makes some great sock options to keep your feet happy: the Simms Merino Thermal OTC Sock, Simms Midweight OTC Sock, Simms Midweight Hiker Sock, Simms Lightweight Sock, any of these are great options depending on the weather conditions.

If conditions are really cold, a base layer top and bottom before something over top is recommended; consequently, if it's warmer, these can be worn just by themselves under waders. Simms Lightweight Base Layer top or bottoms are our choice for a base layer.

Over top of that, there are a few choices for a heavier pant. We like Simms Challenger Sweatpants, Patagonia R2 Techface pant, Patagonia R1 pant, and the Simms Thermal pant, all warm, comfortable, and designed for under-wader wear.

For a next layer top, we like the Simms Thermal ¼ Zip Top, Simms Challenger Hoody, or the Patagonia R1 Pullover. All these tops are very good quality and will help keep your day on the water enjoyable.

Our final layer piece should be the Simms Falls Run Collared Jacket, Simms Fall Run Hoody, Patagonia Nano Puff, or Patagonia Nano Puff Hoody. We cannot say enough good things about any of the mentioned jackets. All of these are incredibly warm, especially for how thin they are; wearing one of these is like wearing a comfy sleeping bag. Not only are these warm, comfy, and thin, they break the wind and have a bit of water repellency to them, and they do dry very quickly, making them really the ultimate cold weather garment.

Well that wraps up our Gear Fishing for Winter Steelhead blog post. We hope you found the information helpful and insightful.

Post your questions in the comments section below or feel free to contact us by email searun2013@gmail.com, by phone at 604-931-5044 or stop by the shop at #110 1140 Austin Avenue in Coquitlam BC.

Good luck on the water.

The Sea-Run Team

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Tags Gear Fishing General River Gear Fishing Steelhead Gear Fishing

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